Recently Adobe updated the version of Lightroom Classic…again. Since then, I’ve seen a couple of videos showing how to develop your images using LR. Just for fun, I thought I’d do something similar but with Capture One. In this example, I’ve used C1-20 which, if you check the version, is 13.x.x. Go figure. I’m not pushing C1 here – not connected to the company in any way – and, honestly, if I wasn’t a Fuji shooter I doubt I’d use it. It’s rather pricey. One more thing: I do subscribe to Adobe’s Photography plan. OK, so let’s cut to the chase.

This is an image of Alcatraz from a recent shoot. You are seeing the before/after view along with some layer info in the upper left corner. Click on the image for a larger view. The left side is the RAF out of the camera displayed in C1. The right side is my development; that’s what I felt when I captured the image. One feature of C1 that I like are the layers. In this case, I’ve named the layers for the part of the image I wanted to change. I used a color adjustment to adjust the sky and clouds. Then, in the next layer, I wanted to enhance the dark levels on the island. I used a luma mask to select the parts of the image I wanted to darken. Finally, I used another color adjustment to enhance the water in the foreground.

All of these adjustments were done directly in C1 – no trips to a third party image processor. I find the layers and selections in C1 very useful and think it saves me a lot of time when processing images. So now I can answer the question we all get: “Was this processed in Photoshop?” with a “No, not at all.” I note C1 20 has updated the clone/healing functions but I’ve not used them as of now. If you are a Fuji, Sony or Nikon shooter, C1 has an Express version that is free. Doesn’t have all the functions of the paid version but, for the money, it’s pretty good.

This comes under the category, “guess who discovered a new filter in Affinity Photo?” That would be me, of course. Here’s the slightly processed photo. Which filter? I used the edge detection in Photo, then enhanced that using the DXO Nik filters. Fun, right?

In my last post, I outlined the idea of using custom profiles in the Fuji world. My goal was to match the “Winogrand” profile I found. That profile is based on the Fuji built-in profile for ACROS. If, like me, you were never really a film person, ACROS is a B/W file made by Fuji. Among other things, I compared the ACROS profile between the Fuji in-camera JPG ACROS and Capture One’s implementation. They were close.

Now, I see the DPReview guys compared the actual film results with the in-camera profile. I can’t show you their results but the executive summary is, “The profile is not the same as the in-camera JPG.”

In fact, I think the Winogrand profile is closer to the film than the camera profile. I find that strange. Check it out and see what you think.

I came across an interesting article on the Fuji Rumors website recently. The idea, making your own profile(s) for your camera, isn’t new but there are 133 profile settings for Fuji cameras on one spreadsheet. See here for the spreadsheet. Given that I’m, like everyone else, stuck at home I thought it would be interesting to try out one of the profiles to see how it works. #79, PE Winogrand seemed to be an interesting one. The image is my (simple) test setup. (click on an image to get the larger size.) Read more »

I’ve started working with video a little. It’s a real learning experience for me. My first attempts range from downright horrible to just barely OK. Among other things, question of what app to use for processing the videos has been a trip.

Here‘s some of my thoughts on this. This is not a review.